Category: Travel in India

Oh boy, what you can do with sandstone. You’ll find the most intricate, delicate shapes in sandstone. This is because it’s softer to carve than granite or marble. This allows highly-decorated temples and mausoleums to be carved of sandstone. It’s like they’re embroidered with zari borders of stone, and ornamented with sequins of sand. And they stand the test of time. Let’s see some famous samples from India …

Patterns at Fatehpur Sikri. Image credit: meinzahn of 123RF stock photo:

At the Red Fort in Delhi. Image credit: imagex of 123RF stock photo:

I don’t know exactly where this pattern is from, but it is the sort of pattern with Islamic and Middle Eastern roots that is common in North India. Image credit: anyamay of 123RF stock photo:

Patterns carved in sandstone at Fatehpur Sikri. Image credit: mrpeak, 123RF stock photo:

Carved detail in a wall of the Red Fort. Image credit: carlesneto, 123RF stock photo:

Here are more patterns from the Red Fort. Image credit: saiko3p, 123RF stock photo:

Fatehpur Sikri was a capital of the Mughal Empire for a very short while during the 16th century. Because red sandstone was readily available in the area, the city is built entirely with it. Not too long after it was constructed, it was mostly abandoned, until the late 1800s. It’s only about 40 kilometers from Agra and the Taj Mahal, so if you’re traveling to the area, it’s worth visiting Fatehpur Sikri.

The Red Fort is in Old Delhi, and was a residence of Mughal emperors centuries ago. It’s a massive complex covering 255 acres. The name Red Fort comes from the red sandstone. Designs carved into the sandstone are a Mughal style blend from Persia, Europe and India.

Both are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites so their art can be preserved for all to enjoy. I’ve shared close-up patterns here, but you can always search Google Images to see panoramic photos.

In Part 2 I introduced you to the Cholas, an empire that governed parts of South India many centuries ago. While they ruled, they built enormous and astounding stone temples for Hindu gods during the 10th to 12th centuries. Several temples are now protected as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. They’re called The Great Living Chola Temples:

• Brihadisvara Temple at Tanjavur
• Temple of Gangaikondacholisvaram
• Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram

I haven’t yet had the chance to visit temples from the Chola period and photograph them myself. So to show you some patterns from them, I purchased stock photos from 123rf.com.

Via anandkrish16, 123RF Stock Photo:

Via anandkrish16, 123RF Stock Photo:

Via dimol, 123RF Stock Photo:

Via anandkrish16, 123RF Stock Photo:

Above are close-up photos I found of bas relief and patterns carved into stone. But you’ll find beautiful patterns on the exterior too. Via obelix, 123RF Stock Photo:

While researching temples of the Chola period, I learned a few interesting things:

• The Gangaikondacholapuram temple was deemed a good source of stones by a British officer, who ordered its demolition. Locals protested and the temple was saved. Really, I’m cool with knocking down an old Pizza Hut building and replacing it, but some architecture should be left alone!
• My suspicions were confirmed — that the Dravidian style architecture carried forth by the Cholas was also the inspiration for Angkor temples, including Angkor Wat. The steep towers and the columned galleries should be recognizable to visitors of both South Indian and Angkor temples.
• The granite used to build massive Chola temples at Thanjavur is not native to the area. So huge granite blocks were transported from very long distances away. It would be interesting to see how they designed/engineered the transportation but unfortunately I don’t think there’s an Indian da Vinci who left drawings for us.
• Ruling empires that came after the Cholas sometimes built onto the temples or painted over Chola art. So to be honest, I really don’t know if the patterns above are truly “Chola patterns.” It takes obsessively diligent tracking to identify the provenance of an area of a temple, much more than you get from a stock photography website’s descriptions!
• In one area of the largest Chola temple, there are 108 carvings of dance postures. Doesn’t the number 108 show up everywhere in history.
• The inner sanctum of these temples is designed as a home for the deity that is there. It’s not designed to hold throngs of human worshippers. This is why these areas are small. I did not know that. This explains why, after a harrowing climb up two sets of 70-degree (plus or minus, doesn’t matter, they’re steep!) stairs at Angkor Wat, reaching the inner sanctum for Vishnu was so … anti-climactic. It was not designed to thrill tourists. And yes that’s a surprise many people may not know and another connection between Cambodia’s Angkor Wat and India — Angkor Wat is a temple for the Hindu god, Vishnu.

I found gorgeous photos of many more patterns carved into temples throughout India. More will be shared here!

Related articles

• Airavateeswara Temple: The best of the Great Living Chola Temples (beontheroad.com)
• Mystery of Angkor Wat Temple’s Huge Stones Solved (livescience.com)